Halos hindi ka makagalaw para sa mga winemaker sa mga nayon ng Burgundy ng Puligny at Chassagne, sabi ni Stephen Brook. At hindi nakakagulat. Ang lugar ay tahanan ng pinakamahusay na mga puting slope ng alak sa rehiyon.
Ang dalawang katabing nayon ng Puligny-Montrachet at Chassagne-Montrachet ay nagbabahagi ng ilan sa pinakamagandang dalisdis ng puting alak ni Burgundy. Parehong nakahiga kasama ang Côte de Beaune, at ang Chassagne ay higit pa sa timog ng dalawa. Ang Chassagne ay medyo mas malaki din, ngunit halos isang-katlo ng mga ubasan nito ay nakatanim ng Pinot Noir. Sa katunayan, ang Chassagne ay dating mas kilala sa pula nito kaysa sa mga puting alak nito, ngunit ang kalidad ng huli ay nakumbinsi ang maraming mga nagtatanim na muling itanim ang mga pulang puno ng ubas kay Chardonnay. Gayunpaman, 40% ng produksyon ni Chassagne ay nasa pulang alak pa rin ng isang makalupang karakter. Mayroong higit sa 20 premiers crus sa Chassagne, ang ilan sa mga ito ay napakaliit. Si Puligny ay mayroong 17.
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Dahil ang lahat ng mga ubasan ng Puligny ay nakatuon sa mga puting ubas, walang gaanong pagkakaiba sa pagitan ng Puligny at Chassagne sa mga tuntunin ng produksyon. Bagaman ang mga alak mula sa bawat nayon ay maaaring magkaroon ng magkakaibang mga katangian, malayo ito sa madaling makilala, sa isang bulag na pagtikim, sa pagitan ng kanilang mga alak. Ang chassagne ay may kaugaliang maging mas mabibigat, marahil ay mas bilugan, at mas malakas sa lantad na mga katangian ng prutas Ang Puligny ay mas masikip at bulaklak, na may binibigkas na kaasiman at pagiging mineral. Mapanganib ang gayong mga paglalahat, subalit, dahil maraming iba pang mga kadahilanan ang pinag-uusapan. Mayroong, sa parehong mga nayon, napaka-natatanging microclimates na nagmula sa taas, paglantad at uri ng lupa, na makakaimpluwensya sa aroma, lasa at istraktura ng isang alak. At hindi maiwasang may impluwensya ng tao: ang mga tiyak na pagpipilian, sa ubasan at alak, na ginawa ng bawat tagagawa.
Ang pinakadakilang mga alak mula sa parehong Puligny at Chassagne ay dumating, tulad ng sa totoo lang dapat, mula sa mga grus na crush ng bawat isa. Ang Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet (3.6ha (hectares)) ay kabilang sa Puligny, tulad din ng Chevalier-Montrachet (7.2ha), na nasa itaas mismo ng Le Montrachet. Ang Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet (1.6ha) ay kabilang sa Chassagne. Gayunpaman, pareho
Ang Le Montrachet (8ha) at Bâtard-Montrachet (12ha) ay ibinabahagi, higit pa o mas mababa pantay, ng parehong mga nayon. Ang mga paglalahat tungkol sa mga napakahusay na ubasan na ito ay kailangang maging madulas, ngunit hindi masyadong malayo sa marka upang masabi na ang Chevalier ay pinahahalagahan para sa pagiging maayos nito, habang ang Bâtard ay may kaugaliang ipakita ang pinakadakilang kapangyarihan at kayamanan. Ang kataas-taasang kapangyarihan ni Le Montrachet ay nagmula sa katotohanang namamahala ito upang ihalo ang gilas ng Chevalier sa katawan ni Bâtard. Ang parehong Criots at Bienvenues ay may mga detractor, at tila, kapag ang isang tao ay nakatayo sa mga ubasan, na ang kanilang paglalahad ay hindi gaanong kanais-nais.
Tulad ng dati sa Burgundy, ang premiers crus ay madalas na matatagpuan sa kalagitnaan ng slope: hindi masyadong mataas, kung saan ang microclimate ay mas malamig at mas windier, at hindi masyadong mababa, kung saan ang lupa ay maaaring masyadong mayaman. Gayunpaman, ang pag-angat ay nag-iiba-iba sa mga premiers crus sa Puligny at Chassagne. Sa Puligny, La Garenne, Hameau de Blagny at Sous le Puits lahat ay mataas sa slope, kaya sa mga hindi gaanong hinog na mga taon maaari silang magbunga ng mas payat, pinipintong alak. Gayunpaman, ang karamihan sa mga tagatikim ay ire-rate nang husto ang La Garenne. Sa Chassagne, mayroong mas kaunting mataas na mga site, kahit na ang La Grande Montagne at Les Chaumées ay nasa libis ng libis.
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Hindi madaling bigkasin kung alin ang magagamit na 'pinakamahusay' na premiers crus. Una sa lahat, depende ito sa istilo ng alak na nasisiyahan ka. Kung may posibilidad kang mas gusto ang kayamanan ng prutas kaysa sa kagandahan, kung gayon sa Chassagne mas malamang na masisiyahan ka sa mga Morgeot o Champ Gain kaysa sa Vergers o Caillerets. At sa Puligny, ang mga Les Referts o Les Combette ay mag-aapela sa iyo higit sa Folatières o Cailleret. Pagkatapos, masyadong, ang istilo ng tagagawa ng alak ay gampanan ang bahagi nito.
Kahit na ang ilang mga winemaker ay pinapaboran pa rin ang isang malaking proporsyon ng bagong oak para sa kanilang puting alak, iyon ay naging labis na pagbubukod. Karamihan sa mga growers ay nag-opt para sa 25-35% bagong kahoy para sa kanilang premiers crus, at marahil 50% para sa kanilang mga apo na crus.
Ang mga terroirs ng parehong Puligny at Chassagne ay sapat na malakas na ang paggamit ng bagong kahoy ay karaniwang pinaghihinalaang bilang isang paraan upang mapahusay ang pagiging kumplikado ng isang alak sa halip na bilang isang sangkap lamang ng lasa. Ang lahat ng ito ay banayad na alak. Sa halip na i-trumpeta ang kanilang profile sa prutas, nag-aalok sila sa halip ng isang mahinahong timpla ng prutas, mineralidad, kaasiman at oak. Ang pinakamagaling sa kanila ay maganda ang edad, pinapalitan ang pangunahing mga aroma ng mas kumplikadong mga tala ng mga mani at bato at toast.
Mahusay na puting Burgundy ay hindi para sa lahat - hindi sa anumang kahulugan ng snobbish, ngunit dahil lamang sa ang apela ng subtly nuanced style nito ay malayo sa unibersal. Sa kabilang banda, ito ay katulad din, dahil walang napakahusay na pag-ikot nito.
Maraming mga superlative na alak sa Puligny, ngunit kakaunti ang mga bargains. Ang Chassagne, sa kaibahan, ay may isang mas malaking bilang ng mga maliliit na growers, at ang mga alak ay bahagyang mas mura kaysa sa mga mula sa Puligny. Sa pangkalahatan, ang mga alak na may mabuting halaga ay mas malamang na magmula sa Chassagne kaysa sa Puligny.
KEY PLAYERS: Puligny at Chassagne
CHASSAGNE
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Kagiliw-Giliw Na Mga Artikulo
