Bordeaux 2010 Lafite Rothschild
Ano yan pong? Sinusuri ng LINDA MURPHY ang mas malala, hindi nauunawaan ngunit, sa ilang mga bahagi, pinahahalagahan, mundo ng Brettanomyces.
Sa unang taon ng aking karera sa alak, nagbuhos ako ng alak sa isang pagpapakita ng mga nangungunang bote mula sa buong mundo. Sa isang pahinga mula sa kinatatayuan, lumibot ako sa silid upang tikman ang marami pang mga handog.
Nang bumalik ako sa aking hapag, nagtanong ang katabi ko, ‘May talagang nagpahanga sa iyo?’ ‘Ang 1989 Châtea malalakaf-du-Pape mula sa Château de Beaucastel, sagot ko. He chuckled: 'You must love Brett.' Kahit na hindi ko alam kung ano ang nakikita ni Brett - Brettanomyces (breh-tan-uh-MYE-nakikita) - noong panahong iyon, sinamba ko ang makalupang, parang balat, pinausukang bacon at pampalasa na character ng Beaucastel , may laman na prutas at matatag na istraktura.
Sa kalaunan ay malalaman ko na ang Brett, isang natural na nagaganap na lebadura na hindi nakakasama na ubusin ay maaaring gumawa ng mabuti at masamang bagay sa mga bango at lasa ng alak, ay magiging isang mainit na paksa sa mga winemaker, na walang malinaw na nagwagi sa debate.
Tinawag ito ng Vintners na 'B word' at, sa pinakamaganda, ang Brettanomyces ay maaaring magbigay ng alak kung ano ang pinaniniwalaan ng marami na positibong mga katangian na nagdaragdag ng pagiging kumplikado at lalim: makamandag na lasa ng guwantes na katad, pinausukang karne, bacon fat, tabako, truffle, sibuyas at iba pang masarap pampalasa
Ngunit kapag si B ay naging masama, maaari nitong bigyan ang alak ng nakakasakit na baho ng barnyard, pataba, plaster, basa na aso, pawis na kumot na kabayo, dumi ng mouse at antiseptiko. Sa takot sa huli, maraming mga tagagawa ng alak sa buong mundo ang gumagawa ng lahat na makakaya nila upang maiwasan ang kontaminasyon ni Brett.
Ang iba ay hinihikayat ang kaunti dito, para sa labis na onsa ng interes, subalit kailangang magsikap nang husto upang ang ligaw na lebadura ay hindi mapuno ang iba't ibang katangian at pagiging mabunga. Ang iba, aba, sabihin nalang natin na kung ang kalinisan ay katabi ng kabanalan, ang ilang mga tagagawa ng alak ay hindi magsisimba. Ang mga nag-aangkin ng goût de terroir para sa kanilang hindi kasiya-siyang mga botelya ay gumagawa lamang ng mga dahilan para sa hindi malinis na mga kasanayan.
Kaibigan o kaaway?
Mayroong maraming mga strain ng - at mga teorya tungkol sa - Brettanomyces, at isang buong talakayan ay nangangailangan ng isang thesis ng microbiology. Kadalasan, mayroong dalawang mga compound na nagbabago ng alak na nakilala kay Brett: 4-ethyl guaiacol (4-eg), na nagbibigay ng naiisip ng marami sa bacon at spice at 4-ethyl phenol 4-ep), kasama ang mga negatibong plaster, wet dog at nakapagpapagaling na katangian.
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Kagiliw-Giliw Na Mga Artikulo
