Lalou Us-Leroy - Grande Dame ng Burgundy- Winestealssd.com

Hindi siya mahal sa buong mundo, at ang kanyang mga alak ay lampas sa karamihan sa atin, ngunit si Stephen Brook ay nasa thrall sa walang pagod na Lalou Bize-Leroy

Si Lalou Bize-Leroy ay bahagyang mukhang naiiba kaysa sa dating dating sa London noong kalagitnaan ng 1980 upang ipakita ang mga alak ng Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, kung saan ang kanyang pamilya ay may-ari ng bahagi. Siya ay may isang bahagyang, elfin figure, na may maliwanag na asul-kulay-abong mga mata at buhok na ngayon ay kulay-pilak kaysa sa purong kulay ginto ang kanyang mga damit ay chic ngunit may maliit na mukha. Ito ay ganap na katwiran na isipin ang malambot, payat na pigura na ito bilang isang nakatuong rock-climber - na siya ay nasa mga dekada. Hanggang sa mag-pause ang isa upang isaalang-alang iyon sa kanyang edad, baka gusto niyang bigyan ito ng pahinga. Ngunit hindi kaunti.

Si Bize-Leroy ay nabubuhay at humihinga ng Burgundian terroir. Hanggang sa 1988 ang kanyang pangunahing pag-aalala ay ang negatibong negosyo ng pamilya, Maison Leroy, na pinapatakbo pa rin niya, na pinapanatili ang Meur assault cellars na may isang milyong bote ng pinong Burgundy. Itinatag ito ng kanyang lolo, noong 1868, ngunit ang kanyang ama ang nagsimulang magtayo ng mga stock ng mga lumang alak mula 1919 pataas. 'Mayroon pa kaming ilang mga bote ng vintage na ibinebenta.' Hindi na banggitin ang bawat mahusay na vintage mula noon. ‘Ang pangunahing hanapbuhay ng aking ama ay ang pagpapatakbo ng Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, kaya't hindi siya nagtinda sa pagbebenta ng mga alak na binili niya.’ Sumali sa kanya si Bize-Leroy noong 1955.

Ang nasabing karanasan at pananaw ay inilalagay siya sa isang mabibigat na posisyon sa loob ng hierarchy ng Burgundy. 'Wala akong mga kontrata sa mga growers, at magsimula sa simula bawat taon. Kung gusto ko ng alak, binibili ko ito. Kung hindi, hindi ko gagawin. ’Sa gayong napakaraming mga reserbang gagamitin, hindi niya nararamdamang obligado siyang bumili taun-taon.

Ang alak ng Maison Leroy ay napakamahal, ngunit buong pagmamalaki niya sa mga ito. Natikman niya ang saklaw tungkol sa isang beses sa isang taon, at nagpapasya kung ano ang ilalabas, kung ano ang panatilihin. Kadalasan ang mga pinakawalan ay mga matandang gulang na vintage, mabilis na na-snap ng mga kolektor, lalo na sa US at Japan. Nagmamay-ari din siya ng 4 na ektarya na Domaine d'Auvenay sa St-Romain, na pinatakbo ng asawang si Marcel Bize hanggang sa kanyang kamatayan ilang taon na ang nakalilipas. Ngayon ay pinapatakbo niya ito nang mag-isa. Sa kabila ng katamtamang address nito, ang Auvenay ay may bilang ng mga grus crus sa portfolio nito, ngunit ang dami ay minuto, at ang pila para sa mga paglalaan ay mahaba.

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