Barolo 2009,
Si Tom Maresca ay ganap na nasiyahan sa pagtikim nitong 2009, na binabanggit ang kabiguan ng mga winemaker na talakayin kung gaano kahirap ang vintage bilang isang dahilan para sa pagpapakitang 'kasiraan' na ito.
'Ilang 2009s ang nabigyang katuwiran sa pagiging optimismo tungkol sa kanilang mahabang buhay, at ang karamihan sa mga tagagawa ay nagsalita ng 2009 bilang isang antigo para sa malapit na pag-inom'
Ang 2009 vintage ng Barolo haharapin ang mga mamimili ng ilang malupit na katotohanan at ilang malupit na alak. Nakatikim ako ng higit sa 200 mga halimbawa ng Barolo 2009 sa Nebbiolo Prima sa Alba noong Mayo. Ang karamihan ng mga alak na inalok sa loob ng limang araw ng kaganapan ay hindi lamang kulang sa klasikong Kulay ng Nebbiolo ngunit nagpakita ng halos walang mga aroma ng Nebbiolo o lasa.
Mahal ko si Barolo, at iginagalang at hinahangaan ko ang marami sa mga tagagawa nito para sa kanilang pagtatalaga at ang kalinawan ng kanilang paningin. Gayunpaman, sasabihin ko na sa vintage na ito ang pagganap ng marami sa kanila ay hindi lamang nawawala, ito ay nakakalungkot.
Siyempre may mga eksepsiyon: maraming mga tagagawa - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, para sa ilan - naging mainum na Barolo. Ilan - kapansin-pansin ang Pio Cesare at Massolino-Vigna Rionda - kahit na may pananampalataya sa potensyal na pagtanda ng kanilang alak. Ang opinyon na iyon ay madalas na naulit ng mga mangangalakal at mamimili, na nakatikim ng isang pagpipilian ng mga alak na ito isang linggo na mas maaga kaysa sa mga mamamahayag, at sa mga tagagawa (hindi bulag). Ngunit sa aking panlasa - at sa opinyon ng maraming mamamahayag na nakausap ko - ang karamihan sa mga gumagawa ng Barolo ay tila labis na minamaliit ang kahirapan ng vintage na ito. Ilang 2009s ang nabigyang katarungan tungkol sa kanilang mahabang buhay, at ang karamihan sa mga tagagawa ay nagsalita ng 2009 bilang isang vintage para sa malapit na pag-inom.
Si Giacomo Conterno, ng Aldo Conterno na gawaan ng alak sa pamayanan ng Monforte, ay isa sa mga mas matalinong gumagawa. Sinabi niya: 'Ang 2009 ay isang vintage ng isang winegrower. Sa pagtatapos ng Agosto, ang ilang mga [Nebbiolo] puno ng ubas ay halos hinog na, at ang ilan ay ganap na hindi hinog - halos 30 araw na pagkakaiba sa pagitan nila. Ang ginawa mo tungkol doon ay natukoy kung anong uri ng alak ang iyong ginawa. ’Ang karaniwang masigasig na pagtatasa ng Consorzio ng pag-aani sa taong ito ay nababantayan:
'Ang 2009 na antigo ay maaalala rin para sa hindi regular na pagkahinog na pattern ... Sa mga tuntunin ng pag-unlad ng teknolohikal, ang antigo ay maaaring mailagay sa pagitan ng 2003 at 2007 ... Na patungkol sa phenolic pagkahinog ... ang data na natagpuan sa mga ubas ay maihahambing sa 2003 ... sa mga produktong ito sa antigong ito ay hindi laging napabuti sa pamamagitan ng pagpapaliban sa pag-aani. '
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Isinulat ni Tom Maresca
Kagiliw-Giliw Na Mga Artikulo
