Profile ng gumawa: Château Haut-Bailly- Winestealssd.com

Ang bagong line-up mula sa Haut-Bailly. Kredito: Haut-Bailly

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Magazine: Isyu noong Setyembre 2016

Bakit ang Château Haut-Bailly ay pa rin isang alak ng mga tagaloob? Dahil ba sa mahinahon, bijou estate na ito ay gumagawa lamang ng ilang libong mga kaso ng engrandeng cru classe de Graves. O dahil din ba sa mga nakakalungkot na kolektor na masigasig na panatilihing lihim na binabantayan ito?

Tingnan ang mga tala ng Decanter Haut-Bailly sa pagtikim sa ibaba

Ang isang bagay ay malinaw - ngayon ang Haut-Bailly ay isa sa mga pinaka-pare-pareho at quintessentially matikas na mga claret. Ang isa pa ay ang natantyang kalidad nito na nagmumula sa isang pambihirang terroir ng red wine, na kung saan ang iba't ibang mga may-ari at tagapag-alaga nito ay madalas na ginawa ang kanilang buong makakaya upang masasalamin sa panahon ng kanyang sikat na kasaysayan. Dahil dito, ang Haut-Bailly ay dobleng pinagpala - kapwa ng mga nagmamay-ari at posisyon nito.

Ang ubasan ay nakaupo katabi ng château sa iisang pinag-isang bloke sa pinakamataas na taluktok ng Pessac-Léognan AC. Ang mga ubas ay nahuhulog sa isang banayad na gradient, na nagbibigay ng perpektong pagkakalantad. Pinoprotektahan ito ng isang espesyal na mesoclimate mula sa mga frost ng tagsibol, habang ang isang halo ng mga gravelly na lupa at mga subsoil ay nagbibigay ng mga mineral, katamtamang stress ng tubig at mahusay na kanal. Si Jean-Bernard Delmas, dating ng Château Haut-Brion, ay bantog na inilarawan ito bilang 'isang tunay na mahusay na terroir'.

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Haut-Bailly - isang timeline

1461 Mga pinakamaagang tala ng mga puno ng ubas sa gravelly pagtaas ng estate

1630 Ang mga nagmamay-ari na sina Firmin Le Bailly at Nicolas de Leuvarde ay nagpapalawak at pinagsama ang ubasan sa kasalukuyang sukat na 33ha

1872 Bumili ang Alcide Bellot des Minières ng Haut-Bailly

1918 Ang Haut-Bailly ay binili ni Frantz Malvesin

1955 Ang Estate na nakuha ng Belgian na si Daniel Sanders

1979 Si Jean Sanders ang pumalit sa kanyang ama

1997 Si Véronique Sanders ay sumali sa Haut-Bailly

1998 Bumili si Robert G Wilmers ng ari-arian mula sa pamilyang Sanders

2000 Si Véronique Sanders ay humirang ng manager ng estate (at kasunod na pangulo)

2002 Si Gabriel Vialard ay naging teknikal na direktor

2012 Si Robert G Wilmers ay bumibili at nag-aayos ng Château Le Pape

Magic formula

Ang lahat ng ito ay tumagal ng isang bilang ng mga taon - at hindi isang hindi mapag-isipang halaga ng cash. 'Ang pamumuhunan ni Bob ay isang bubble ng purong oxygen para sa Haut-Bailly,' sabi ni Sanders. 'Ang kanyang pag-unawa na ang kalidad ng alak ay pinakamahalaga at ang lahat ng bagay na dumaloy mula doon ay nagbibigay-daan sa amin upang lumipat hindi lamang mas mabilis, kundi pati na rin.'

Talagang ipinakita ang epekto sa 2004 na antigo. 'Iyon ang unang malaking hakbang,' sabi ni Sanders. Ang isa pa ay dumating noong 2008, at hindi sinasadya na ang dalawang klasikal na mga vintage na ito ay hindi ang pinakapuri sa Bordeaux. 'Ito ang isa sa mga kalakasan ng Haut-Bailly,' dagdag niya. ‘Palagi kaming lumalagpas sa tinaguriang mga off-vintage.’ Ang 2013 ay kailangang tikman upang paniwalaan, na nagpapatunay na ang Haut-Bailly ay hindi kailanman napalampas.

Sa bawat vintage, ang kanyang hangarin ay pare-pareho: upang mailabas ang pinakamahusay na prized terroir ng Haut-Bailly. Ang hinahanap niya ay isang banayad na balanse sa pagitan ng pagkapino at konsentrasyon. ‘Ang aking hangarin ay ang kadalisayan ng prutas, pagiging bago, kinis at istraktura na may malambot, hinog na mga tannin at binibigkas na mga aroma.’ Ang pagsasama ay nag-iiba sa bawat taon, kung minsan ay lubos na kapansin-pansing, na kung saan ay karagdagang patunay sa kamangha-manghang pagkakapare-pareho ng Haut-Bailly. Ang kanyang sikreto sa oras ng pag-aani ay palaging pumili ng maaga sa Merlot para sa pagiging bago at maghintay at maghintay para sa Cabernet, anihin ito sa huling posibleng sandali.

'Sa huli, gusto ko ng isang bagong ginintuang panahon para sa Haut-Bailly, tulad ng nasisiyahan kami noong ika-19 na siglo,' sabi niya. Ang ilan (kasama ko) ay magtaltalan na nakamit na nila ni Wilmers. Sa merkado ngayon imposibleng lumagpas at mabigyan ng presyo ang mga unang paglago. Ngunit ang Haut-Bailly ay walang alinlangan na nagsara ng agwat, na kinukuha ang estate sa mga bagong taas. Ngayon ito ay isang grand cru classé de Graves na nagtatamasa ng katumbas ng 'super-pangalawang' katayuan, madalas na walang tag na presyo ng dumadalo. Kamakailan-lamang, ang Wilmers ay bumili at nag-ayos ng isang estate sa malapit na tinatawag na Château Le Pape, na nagpapakita na ng dakilang pangako sa ilalim ng pangangasiwa ni Sanders. ‘Palaging may plano si Bob. Palagi siyang nakatingin. Madalas siyang magbiro sa pagsasabing, 'Mayroon akong magandang koponan dito at nais kong gawin itong abala'. '

Malinaw na umunlad ang sanders sa hamon at hindi ito masisiyahan. 'Mayroong isang bagay na mahiwagang tungkol sa lugar na ito na nararamdaman kong masidhi.' Gayundin ang para kay Wilmers at ang natitirang kapansin-pansin na grupo ng mga taong nagmamahal at nagmamalasakit sa hiyas na ito ng isang ubasan.

Ang Haut-Bailly ay hindi maaaring nasa mas mahusay na mga kamay.